Suggested:
The Matterhorn stands on the border between Switzerland and Italy and dominates the surrounding Alpine landscape. Before 1865, it remained unclimbed despite repeated attempts. Its steep faces, unstable rock, and sharply pointed summit made it one of the most feared peaks in Europe.
The Matterhorn stands on the border between Switzerland and Italy and dominates the surrounding Alpine landscape. Before 1865, it remained unclimbed despite repeated attempts. Its steep faces, unstable rock, and sharply pointed summit made it one of the most feared peaks in Europe.
During the mid-nineteenth century, most major Alpine mountains had already been climbed. The Matterhorn became the final great objective of the Golden Age of Alpinism, and success on it promised lasting recognition.
Â
Â
Â
Edward Whymper and his principal rival Jean-Antoine Carrel, whose competing attempts defined the race to climb the Matterhorn.
(Image credit: Alpine Club Archive / Wikimedia Commons)
Edward Whymper first attempted the Matterhorn in 1861. Over the next four years, he made multiple unsuccessful efforts. His main rival was Jean-Antoine Carrel , who led Italian attempts from the southern ridge.
The rivalry intensified as both men sought to be first. By the summer of 1865, both teams were preparing for decisive attempts.
On 13 July 1865, Whymper set out from Zermatt with a mixed party of climbers and guides:
The group chose the Hörnli Ridge, which offered the most feasible line to the summit.
On 14 July 1865, the team reached the summit. From the top, they observed Carrel’s Italian team still climbing below them. The race was over.
The ascent itself was completed without incident. All members reached the summit safely and began preparing for descent.
During the descent, the climbers were roped together in a single line. The order was:
The two Taugwalders followed behind.
At a steep section, Hadow slipped. Croz attempted to stop the fall but was pulled off balance. Hudson and Douglas were dragged with them. The rope connecting Whymper to Douglas snapped, leaving Whymper and the two guides separated from the falling group.
The following climbers fell more than 1,000 meters and died instantly:
Whymper and the two Taugwalders survived and descended safely.
A formal inquiry was conducted in Switzerland. The investigation concluded that:
Public reaction was intense. Newspapers across Europe debated the ethics and risks of mountaineering. The Matterhorn ascent became both a symbol of human achievement and a warning.
The Matterhorn tragedy marked the effective end of the Golden Age of Alpinism. It changed mountaineering practices permanently, emphasizing:
The mountain was never again approached with the same sense of innocence.
| Name | Nationality | Role | Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| Michel Croz | French | Guide | 14 July 1865 |
| Douglas R. Hadow | British | Climber | 14 July 1865 |
| Charles Hudson | British | Climber | 14 July 1865 |
| Lord Francis Douglas | British | Climber | 14 July 1865 |
Rob Hall remained high on the mountain assisting Hansen. Hansen was severely exhausted and struggling to descend. Scott Fischer also slowed dramatically during descent and eventually stopped moving.
The crossings were not single continuous marches. They were a series of calculated movements from one known source of life to the next. Each arrival at a functioning well brought visible relief. Each departure meant committing again to uncertainty.
Ernesto Guevara de la Serna was born in 1928 in Rosario and raised primarily in Córdoba and later Buenos Aires. His family belonged to Argentina’s educated middle class and encouraged independent thinking
